Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers
The result's identifiers
Result code in IS VaVaI
<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F14%3A10313207" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/14:10313207 - isvavai.cz</a>
Result on the web
<a href="http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/19346182.2015.1012082" target="_blank" >http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/19346182.2015.1012082</a>
DOI - Digital Object Identifier
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Alternative languages
Result language
angličtina
Original language name
Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers
Original language description
The aim of this study was to assess the validity and reliability of four climbing grip positions during finger flexor strength measurement using electronic scales in a sport climbing contexts. Fifty-five climbers with self-reported climbing abilities RP(redpoint) between 5 and 12- on the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) scale volunteered to the study. Strength measures were obtained using open grip (OG), crimp grip (CG), index + middle finger (IM), middle + ring finger (MR) on a23 mm wide wood-edge climbing hold. The climbers were asked to stand on the scale platform and to progressively load their maximum weight on to the tested arm. Strength for each measurement was calculated by subtracting the lowest value shown during grip-hold from the participant's body mass. Intra-session reliability was calculated across three trials and test-retest reliability through a cohort tested in second testing session on week later. The ICC coefficients for all grip positions
Czech name
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Czech description
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Classification
Type
J<sub>x</sub> - Unclassified - Peer-reviewed scientific article (Jimp, Jsc and Jost)
CEP classification
AK - Sport and leisure time activities
OECD FORD branch
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Result continuities
Project
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Continuities
I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace
Others
Publication year
2014
Confidentiality
S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů
Data specific for result type
Name of the periodical
Sports Technology
ISSN
1934-6182
e-ISSN
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Volume of the periodical
7
Issue of the periodical within the volume
3-4
Country of publishing house
GB - UNITED KINGDOM
Number of pages
8
Pages from-to
151-158
UT code for WoS article
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EID of the result in the Scopus database
2-s2.0-84941174415