Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Result code in IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F16%3A10314026" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/16:10314026 - isvavai.cz</a>

Result on the web

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198" target="_blank" >http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198" target="_blank" >10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198</a>

Result language

angličtina

Original language name

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Original language description

This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time-force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time-force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (UPWARDS ARROW 22%, P < .05), force-time integral (UPWARDS ARROW 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (UPWARDS ARROW 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.

Czech name

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Czech description

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Type

J_x - Unclassified - Peer-reviewed scientific article (Jimp, Jsc and Jost)

CEP classification

AK - Sport and leisure time activities

OECD FORD branch

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Project

—

Continuities

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Publication year

2016

Confidentiality

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Name of the periodical

European Journal of Sport Science

ISSN

1746-1391

e-ISSN

—

Volume of the periodical

16

Issue of the periodical within the volume

7

Country of publishing house

GB - UNITED KINGDOM

Number of pages

9

Pages from-to

764-772

UT code for WoS article

000382579000002

EID of the result in the Scopus database

2-s2.0-84950123506