Muscular strength and endurance in climbers
The result's identifiers
Result code in IS VaVaI
<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F16%3A10329133" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/16:10329133 - isvavai.cz</a>
Result on the web
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DOI - Digital Object Identifier
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Alternative languages
Result language
angličtina
Original language name
Muscular strength and endurance in climbers
Original language description
This chapter discusses the role of, and explore what should be understood by, the terms muscular strength, power and endurance: attributes that are considered amongst the most important predictors of climbing performance. It also describes climbing specific tests that correspond to the loading, movement and body positions typically found whilst climbing. Test specificity requires similar motor unit recruitment, type of contraction, speed of contraction, position of body segments and time characteristics of contraction to be considered. Climbing specific tests may be divided into four areas: 1) Finger flexors strength, involving isometric contraction of the finger flexors on a hold 2-3 cm deep with an open or crimp grip, with the tested arm above the head. 2) Finger flexors endurance, with either a) intermittent test until exhaustion with the 5-12 s contraction and 2-4 s relief at 30-80% MVC, or b) continuous finger hang with both hands on a 2-3 cm deep rung. 3) Shoulder girdle power with either a one or two arm explosive upward movement. 4) Shoulder girdle strength and endurance, bent-arm hang on one or both arms. Supporting normative data is provided for a large range of climbing specific tests, and for a broad spectrum of climbing abilities.
Czech name
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Czech description
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Classification
Type
C - Chapter in a specialist book
CEP classification
AM - Pedagogy and education
OECD FORD branch
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Result continuities
Project
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Continuities
I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace
Others
Publication year
2016
Confidentiality
S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů
Data specific for result type
Book/collection name
The science of climbing and mountaineering
ISBN
978-1-138-92758-2
Number of pages of the result
17
Pages from-to
147-163
Number of pages of the book
308
Publisher name
Routledge
Place of publication
Abingdon, Oxon
UT code for WoS chapter
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