Validity and normative scores of finger flexor strength and endurance tests estimated from a large sample of female and male climbers

Result code in IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F25%3A10502144" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/25:10502144 - isvavai.cz</a>

Result on the web

<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=wmo4GtMAhP" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=wmo4GtMAhP</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2024.2449316" target="_blank" >10.1080/02640414.2024.2449316</a>

Result language

angličtina

Original language name

Validity and normative scores of finger flexor strength and endurance tests estimated from a large sample of female and male climbers

Original language description

Recent reviews have highlighted conflicting findings regarding the validity of finger flexor strength and endurance tests in sport climbers, often due to small sample sizes and low ecological validity of the tests used. To address these gaps, 185 male and 122 female climbers underwent maximal finger flexor strength, intermittent and continuous finger flexor endurance, and the finger hang tests in a sport-specific setting to determine the predictive and concurrent validity of these tests. The finger hang test showed the strongest relationship to climbing ability for both sexes (R approximate to 0.75). However, despite its widespread use as an endurance test, the finger hang was found to be primarily determined by finger strength, explaining 65% and 80% of the variance in males and females, respectively. Finger strength emerged as the dominant factor, explaining the majority of variance in climbing ability (males 68%; females 64%), followed by intermittent endurance (males 28%; females 34%). These findings emphasize finger strength as the primary predictor of climbing ability and highlight the importance of intermittent endurance testing for assessing climbing-specific endurance of the finger flexors. No significant differences were found between male and female climbers in finger flexor strength and endurance when normalized to body mass.

Czech name

—

Czech description

—

Type

J_imp - Article in a specialist periodical, which is included in the Web of Science database

CEP classification

—

OECD FORD branch

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Project

—

Continuities

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Publication year

2025

Confidentiality

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Name of the periodical

Journal of Sports Sciences

ISSN

0264-0414

e-ISSN

1466-447X

Volume of the periodical

43

Issue of the periodical within the volume

3

Country of publishing house

GB - UNITED KINGDOM

Number of pages

11

Pages from-to

245-255

UT code for WoS article

001389798800001

EID of the result in the Scopus database

2-s2.0-105001477483