Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

Result code in IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F21%3A10425552" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/21:10425552 - isvavai.cz</a>

Result on the web

<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=XqyO.0Vldu" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=XqyO.0Vldu</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00421-021-04595-7" target="_blank" >10.1007/s00421-021-04595-7</a>

Result language

angličtina

Original language name

Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

Original language description

Purpose Sport climbing requires high-intensity finger flexor contractions, along with a substantial whole-body systemic oxygen uptake ((v) over dotO(2)) contribution. Although fatigue is often localised to the finger flexors, the role of systemic (v) over dotO(2) and local aerobic mechanisms in climbing performance remains unclear. As such, the primary purpose of this study was to determine systemic and local muscle oxygen responses during both isolated finger flexion and incremental exhaustive whole-body climbing tests. The secondary aim was to determine the relationship of isolated and whole-body climbing endurance tests to climbing ability. Methods Twenty-two male sport climbers completed a series of isometric sustained and intermittent forearm flexor contractions, and an exhaustive climbing test with progressive steepening of the wall angle on a motorised climbing ergometer. Systemic (v) over dotO(2) and flexor digitorum profundus oxygen saturation-(StO(2)) were recorded using portable metabolic analyser and near-infra red spectroscopy, respectively. Results Muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) was identifiable during an incremental exhaustive climbing test with progressive increases in angle (82 +/- 8% and 88 +/- 8% (v) over dotO(2) and heart rate climbing peak). The peak angle from whole-body treadwall test and impulse from isolated hangboard endurance tests were interrelated (R-2 = 0.58-0.64). Peak climbing angle together with mean (v) over dotO(2) and-StO(2) from submaximal climbing explained 83% of variance in self-reported climbing ability. Conclusions Both systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics determine climbing-specific endurance. Exhaustive climbing and isolated finger flexion endurance tests are interrelated and suitable to assess climbing-specific endurance. An exhaustive climbing test with progressive wall angle allows determination of the MOB.

Czech name

—

Czech description

—

Type

J_imp - Article in a specialist periodical, which is included in the Web of Science database

CEP classification

—

OECD FORD branch

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Project

—

Continuities

S - Specificky vyzkum na vysokych skolach

Publication year

2021

Confidentiality

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Name of the periodical

European Journal of Applied Physiology

ISSN

1439-6319

e-ISSN

—

Volume of the periodical

121

Issue of the periodical within the volume

5

Country of publishing house

DE - GERMANY

Number of pages

12

Pages from-to

1337-1348

UT code for WoS article

000618573000001

EID of the result in the Scopus database

2-s2.0-85100881617