The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State
The result's identifiers
Result code in IS VaVaI
<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F22%3A10439606" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/22:10439606 - isvavai.cz</a>
Result on the web
<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=OIhfc76p_I" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=OIhfc76p_I</a>
DOI - Digital Object Identifier
<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.3389/fphys.2021.792376" target="_blank" >10.3389/fphys.2021.792376</a>
Alternative languages
Result language
angličtina
Original language name
The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State
Original language description
Purpose: Sport climbing is a technical, self-paced sport, and the workload is highly variable and mainly localized to the forearm flexors. It has not proved effective to control intensity using measures typical of other sports, such as gas exchange thresholds, heart rate, or blood lactate. Therefore, the purposes of the study were to (1) determine the possibility of applying the mathematical model of critical power to the estimation of a critical angle (CA) as a measure of maximal metabolic steady state in climbing and (2) to compare this intensity with the muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) determined during an exhaustive climbing task. Materials and Methods: Twenty-seven sport climbers undertook three to five exhaustive ascents on a motorized treadwall at differing angles to estimate CA, and one exhaustive climbing test with a progressive increase in angle to determine MOB, assessed using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS). Results: Model fit for estimated CA was very high (R2 = 0.99; SEE = 1.1°). The mean peak angle during incremental test was -17 +- 5°, and CA from exhaustive trials was found at -2.5 +- 3.8°. Nine climbers performing the ascent 2° under CA were able to sustain the task for 20 min with perceived exertion at 12.1 +- 1.9 (RPE). However, climbing 2° above CA led to task failure after 15.9 +- 3.0 min with RPE = 16.4 +- 1.9. When MOB was plotted against estimated CA, good agreement was stated (ICC = 0.80, SEM = 1.5°). Conclusion: Climbers, coaches, and researchers may use a predefined route with three to five different wall angles to estimate CA as an analog of critical power to determine a maximal metabolic steady state in climbing. Moreover, a climbing test with progressive increases in wall angle using MOB also appears to provide a valid estimate of CA.
Czech name
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Czech description
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Classification
Type
J<sub>imp</sub> - Article in a specialist periodical, which is included in the Web of Science database
CEP classification
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OECD FORD branch
30306 - Sport and fitness sciences
Result continuities
Project
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Continuities
I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace
Others
Publication year
2022
Confidentiality
S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů
Data specific for result type
Name of the periodical
Frontiers in Physiology [online]
ISSN
1664-042X
e-ISSN
1664-042X
Volume of the periodical
12
Issue of the periodical within the volume
neuvedeno
Country of publishing house
CH - SWITZERLAND
Number of pages
9
Pages from-to
1-9
UT code for WoS article
000808075900001
EID of the result in the Scopus database
2-s2.0-85123066294