Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing

Result code in IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F18%3A10376384" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/18:10376384 - isvavai.cz</a>

Result on the web

<a href="https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484" target="_blank" >https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484" target="_blank" >10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484</a>

Result language

angličtina

Original language name

Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing

Original language description

Purpose: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability. Methods: To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90 degrees) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180 degrees and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF. Results: The maximal strength test without AF more strongly determined climbing ability than the test with AF (r(2)=.48 and r(2)=.42 for sport climbing; r(2)=.66 and r(2)=.42 for bouldering, respectively). Force and time variables were highly reliable; the rate of force development and fatigue index had moderate and low reliability. The maximal strength test with AF provided slightly higher reliability than without AF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC]=0.94, ICC=0.88, respectively). However, smaller maximal forces were achieved during AF (484 +/- 112N) than without AF (546 +/- 132N). All-out test average force had sufficiently high reliability (ICC=0.92) and a relationship to sport climbing (r(2)=.42) and bouldering ability (r(2)=.58). Conclusion: Finger strength and endurance measurements provided sufficient construct validity evidence and high reliability for time and force parameters. Arm fixation provides more reliable results; however, the position without AF is recommended as it is more related to climbing ability.

Czech name

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Czech description

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Type

J_imp - Article in a specialist periodical, which is included in the Web of Science database

CEP classification

—

OECD FORD branch

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Project

—

Continuities

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Publication year

2018

Confidentiality

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Name of the periodical

Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport

ISSN

0270-1367

e-ISSN

—

Volume of the periodical

89

Issue of the periodical within the volume

2

Country of publishing house

US - UNITED STATES

Number of pages

9

Pages from-to

246-254

UT code for WoS article

000434342600013

EID of the result in the Scopus database

2-s2.0-85044455479