Comparing low volume of blood flow restricted to high-intensity resistance training of the finger flexors to maintain climbing-specific strength and endurance: a crossover study

Result code in IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F23%3A10470593" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/23:10470593 - isvavai.cz</a>

Result on the web

<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=TkcDRlZjrk" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=TkcDRlZjrk</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.3389/fspor.2023.1256136" target="_blank" >10.3389/fspor.2023.1256136</a>

Result language

angličtina

Original language name

Comparing low volume of blood flow restricted to high-intensity resistance training of the finger flexors to maintain climbing-specific strength and endurance: a crossover study

Original language description

Introduction: It is acknowledged that training during recovery periods after injury involves reducing both volume and intensity, often resulting in losses of sport-specific fitness. Therefore, this study aimed to compare the effects of high-intensity training (HIT) and low-intensity training with blood flow restriction (LIT + BFR) of the finger flexors in order to preserve climbing-specific strength and endurance.Methods: In a crossover design, thirteen intermediate climbers completed two 5-week periods of isometric finger flexors training on a hangboard. The trainings consisted of ten LIT + BFR (30% of max) or HIT sessions (60% of max without BFR) and were undertaken in a randomized order. The training session consisted of 6 unilateral sets of 1 min intermittent hanging at a 7:3 work relief ratio for both hands. Maximal voluntary contraction (MVC), force impulse from the 4 min all out test (W), critical force (CF) and force impulse above the critical force (W&apos;) of the finger flexors were assessed before, after the first, and after the second training period, using a climbing-specific dynamometer. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity was estimated from an occlusion test using near-infrared spectroscopy at the same time points.Results: Both training methods led to maintaining strength and endurance indicators, however, no interaction (P &gt; 0.05) was found between the training methods for any strength or endurance variable. A significant increase (P = 0.002) was found for W, primarily driven by the HIT group (pretest-25078 +/- 7584 N.s, post-test-27327 +/-; 8051 N.s, P = 0.012, Cohen&apos;s d = 0.29). There were no significant (P &gt; 0.05) pre- post-test changes for MVC (HIT: Cohen&apos;s d = 0.13; LIT + BFR: Cohen&apos;s d = -0.10), CF (HIT: Cohen&apos;s d = 0.36; LIT + BFR = 0.05), W&apos; (HIT: Cohen&apos;s d = -0.03, LIT + BFR = 0.12), and forearm muscle oxidative capacity (HIT: Cohen&apos;s d = -0.23; LIT + BFR: Cohen&apos;s d = -0.07).Conclusions: Low volume of BFR and HIT led to similar results, maintaining climbing-specific strength and endurance in lower grade and intermediate climbers. It appears that using BFR training may be an alternative approach after finger injury as low mechanical impact occurs during training.

Czech name

—

Czech description

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Type

J_imp - Article in a specialist periodical, which is included in the Web of Science database

CEP classification

—

OECD FORD branch

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Project

—

Continuities

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Publication year

2023

Confidentiality

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Name of the periodical

Frontiers in Sports and Active Living

ISSN

2624-9367

e-ISSN

2624-9367

Volume of the periodical

5

Issue of the periodical within the volume

neuvedeno

Country of publishing house

CH - SWITZERLAND

Number of pages

9

Pages from-to

1-9

UT code for WoS article

001089384400001

EID of the result in the Scopus database

2-s2.0-85174212641