Acute Effect of High-Intensity Climbing on Performance and Muscle Oxygenation in Elite Climbers
The result's identifiers
Result code in IS VaVaI
<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F22%3A10441704" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/22:10441704 - isvavai.cz</a>
Result on the web
<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=mE1b0v4aB1" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=mE1b0v4aB1</a>
DOI - Digital Object Identifier
<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s42978-021-00139-9" target="_blank" >10.1007/s42978-021-00139-9</a>
Alternative languages
Result language
angličtina
Original language name
Acute Effect of High-Intensity Climbing on Performance and Muscle Oxygenation in Elite Climbers
Original language description
High-intensity training (HIT) is known to have deteriorating effects on performance which manifest in various physiological changes such as lowered force production and oxidative capacity. However, the effect of HIT in climbing on finger flexor performance has not been investigated yet. Twenty-one climbers partook in an intervention study with three assessment time points: pre-HIT, post-HIT, and 24-h post-HIT. The HIT involved four five-minute exhaustive climbing tasks. Eight climbers were assigned to a control group. Assessments consisted of three finger flexor tests: maximum voluntary contraction (MVC), sustained contraction (SCT), and intermittent contraction tests (ICT). During the SCT muscle oxygenation (SmO2) metrics were collected via NIRS sensors on the forearm. The HIT had significant deteriorating effects on all force production metrics (MVC - 18%, SCT - 55%, ICT - 59%). Post-24 h showed significant recovery, which was less pronounced for the endurance tests (MVC - 3%, SCT - 16%, ICT - 22%). SmO2 metrics provided similar results for the SCT with medium to large effect sizes. Minimally attainable SmO2 and resting SmO2 both showed moderate negative correlations with pre-HIT force production respectively; r = - 0.41, P = 0.102; r = - 0.361, P = 0.154. A strong association was found between a loss of force production and change in minimally attainable SmO2 (r = - 0.734, P = 0.016). This study presents novel findings on the deteriorating effects of HIT on finger flexor performance and their oxidative capacity. Specifically, the divergent results between strength and endurance tests should be of interest to coaches and athletes when assessing athlete readiness.
Czech name
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Czech description
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Classification
Type
J<sub>SC</sub> - Article in a specialist periodical, which is included in the SCOPUS database
CEP classification
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OECD FORD branch
30306 - Sport and fitness sciences
Result continuities
Project
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Continuities
I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace
Others
Publication year
2022
Confidentiality
S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů
Data specific for result type
Name of the periodical
Journal of Science in Sport and Exercise
ISSN
2096-6709
e-ISSN
2662-1371
Volume of the periodical
4
Issue of the periodical within the volume
2
Country of publishing house
CH - SWITZERLAND
Number of pages
11
Pages from-to
145-155
UT code for WoS article
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EID of the result in the Scopus database
2-s2.0-85119501927