Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors

Result code in IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F24%3A10489718" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/24:10489718 - isvavai.cz</a>

Result on the web

<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=W0v87_.SMk" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=W0v87_.SMk</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00421-024-05490-7" target="_blank" >10.1007/s00421-024-05490-7</a>

Result language

angličtina

Original language name

Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors

Original language description

Purpose The critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers.Methods Twelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits. Initially, they performed the 4 min intermittent contraction all-out test for CF determination. Subsequent verification visits involved finger-flexor contractions at various intensities, including CF, CF -2 kg, CF -4 kg, and CF -6 kg, lasting for 720 s or until failure, while monitoring muscle-oxygen dynamics of forearm muscles.Results CF, determined from the mean force of last three contractions, was measured at 20.1 +/- 5.7 kg, while the end-force at 16.8 +/- 5.2 kg. In the verification trials, the mean time to failure at CF was 440 +/- 140 s, with only one participant completing the 720 s task. When the load was continuously lowered (-2 kg, -4 kg, and -6 kg), a greater number of participants (38%, 69%, and 92%, respectively) successfully completed the 720 s task. Changes of muscle-oxygen dynamics showed a high variability and could not clearly distinguish between exhaustive and non-exhaustive trials.Conclusions CF, based on the mean force of the last three contractions, failed to reliably predict the highest sustainable work rate. In contrast, determining CF as the end-force of the last three contractions exhibited a stronger link to sustainable work. Caution is advised in interpreting forearm muscle-oxygen dynamics, lacking sensitivity for nuanced metabolic responses during climbing-related tasks.

Czech name

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Czech description

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Type

J_imp - Article in a specialist periodical, which is included in the Web of Science database

CEP classification

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OECD FORD branch

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Project

—

Continuities

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Publication year

2024

Confidentiality

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Name of the periodical

European Journal of Applied Physiology

ISSN

1439-6319

e-ISSN

1439-6327

Volume of the periodical

124

Issue of the periodical within the volume

9

Country of publishing house

DE - GERMANY

Number of pages

12

Pages from-to

2787-2798

UT code for WoS article

001208639200001

EID of the result in the Scopus database

2-s2.0-85191735859