Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers

Kód výsledku v IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F14%3A10313207" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/14:10313207 - isvavai.cz</a>

Výsledek na webu

<a href="http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/19346182.2015.1012082" target="_blank" >http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/19346182.2015.1012082</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

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Jazyk výsledku

angličtina

Název v původním jazyce

Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers

Popis výsledku v původním jazyce

The aim of this study was to assess the validity and reliability of four climbing grip positions during finger flexor strength measurement using electronic scales in a sport climbing contexts. Fifty-five climbers with self-reported climbing abilities RP(redpoint) between 5 and 12- on the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) scale volunteered to the study. Strength measures were obtained using open grip (OG), crimp grip (CG), index + middle finger (IM), middle + ring finger (MR) on a23 mm wide wood-edge climbing hold. The climbers were asked to stand on the scale platform and to progressively load their maximum weight on to the tested arm. Strength for each measurement was calculated by subtracting the lowest value shown during grip-hold from the participant's body mass. Intra-session reliability was calculated across three trials and test-retest reliability through a cohort tested in second testing session on week later. The ICC coefficients for all grip positions

Název v anglickém jazyce

Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers

Popis výsledku anglicky

The aim of this study was to assess the validity and reliability of four climbing grip positions during finger flexor strength measurement using electronic scales in a sport climbing contexts. Fifty-five climbers with self-reported climbing abilities RP(redpoint) between 5 and 12- on the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) scale volunteered to the study. Strength measures were obtained using open grip (OG), crimp grip (CG), index + middle finger (IM), middle + ring finger (MR) on a23 mm wide wood-edge climbing hold. The climbers were asked to stand on the scale platform and to progressively load their maximum weight on to the tested arm. Strength for each measurement was calculated by subtracting the lowest value shown during grip-hold from the participant's body mass. Intra-session reliability was calculated across three trials and test-retest reliability through a cohort tested in second testing session on week later. The ICC coefficients for all grip positions

Druh

J_x - Nezařazeno - Článek v odborném periodiku (Jimp, Jsc a Jost)

CEP obor

AK - Sport a aktivity volného času

OECD FORD obor

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Projekt

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Návaznosti

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Rok uplatnění

2014

Kód důvěrnosti údajů

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Název periodika

Sports Technology

ISSN

1934-6182

e-ISSN

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Svazek periodika

7

Číslo periodika v rámci svazku

3-4

Stát vydavatele periodika

GB - Spojené království Velké Británie a Severního Irska

Počet stran výsledku

8

Strana od-do

151-158

Kód UT WoS článku

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EID výsledku v databázi Scopus

2-s2.0-84941174415