Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Kód výsledku v IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F16%3A10314026" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/16:10314026 - isvavai.cz</a>

Výsledek na webu

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198" target="_blank" >http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198" target="_blank" >10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198</a>

Jazyk výsledku

angličtina

Název v původním jazyce

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Popis výsledku v původním jazyce

This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time-force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time-force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (UPWARDS ARROW 22%, P < .05), force-time integral (UPWARDS ARROW 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (UPWARDS ARROW 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.

Název v anglickém jazyce

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Popis výsledku anglicky

This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time-force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time-force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (UPWARDS ARROW 22%, P < .05), force-time integral (UPWARDS ARROW 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (UPWARDS ARROW 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.

Druh

J_x - Nezařazeno - Článek v odborném periodiku (Jimp, Jsc a Jost)

CEP obor

AK - Sport a aktivity volného času

OECD FORD obor

—

Projekt

—

Návaznosti

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Rok uplatnění

2016

Kód důvěrnosti údajů

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Název periodika

European Journal of Sport Science

ISSN

1746-1391

e-ISSN

—

Svazek periodika

16

Číslo periodika v rámci svazku

7

Stát vydavatele periodika

GB - Spojené království Velké Británie a Severního Irska

Počet stran výsledku

9

Strana od-do

764-772

Kód UT WoS článku

000382579000002

EID výsledku v databázi Scopus

2-s2.0-84950123506