Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

Kód výsledku v IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F21%3A10425552" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/21:10425552 - isvavai.cz</a>

Výsledek na webu

<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=XqyO.0Vldu" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=XqyO.0Vldu</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00421-021-04595-7" target="_blank" >10.1007/s00421-021-04595-7</a>

Jazyk výsledku

angličtina

Název v původním jazyce

Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

Popis výsledku v původním jazyce

Purpose Sport climbing requires high-intensity finger flexor contractions, along with a substantial whole-body systemic oxygen uptake ((v) over dotO(2)) contribution. Although fatigue is often localised to the finger flexors, the role of systemic (v) over dotO(2) and local aerobic mechanisms in climbing performance remains unclear. As such, the primary purpose of this study was to determine systemic and local muscle oxygen responses during both isolated finger flexion and incremental exhaustive whole-body climbing tests. The secondary aim was to determine the relationship of isolated and whole-body climbing endurance tests to climbing ability. Methods Twenty-two male sport climbers completed a series of isometric sustained and intermittent forearm flexor contractions, and an exhaustive climbing test with progressive steepening of the wall angle on a motorised climbing ergometer. Systemic (v) over dotO(2) and flexor digitorum profundus oxygen saturation-(StO(2)) were recorded using portable metabolic analyser and near-infra red spectroscopy, respectively. Results Muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) was identifiable during an incremental exhaustive climbing test with progressive increases in angle (82 +/- 8% and 88 +/- 8% (v) over dotO(2) and heart rate climbing peak). The peak angle from whole-body treadwall test and impulse from isolated hangboard endurance tests were interrelated (R-2 = 0.58-0.64). Peak climbing angle together with mean (v) over dotO(2) and-StO(2) from submaximal climbing explained 83% of variance in self-reported climbing ability. Conclusions Both systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics determine climbing-specific endurance. Exhaustive climbing and isolated finger flexion endurance tests are interrelated and suitable to assess climbing-specific endurance. An exhaustive climbing test with progressive wall angle allows determination of the MOB.

Název v anglickém jazyce

Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

Popis výsledku anglicky

Purpose Sport climbing requires high-intensity finger flexor contractions, along with a substantial whole-body systemic oxygen uptake ((v) over dotO(2)) contribution. Although fatigue is often localised to the finger flexors, the role of systemic (v) over dotO(2) and local aerobic mechanisms in climbing performance remains unclear. As such, the primary purpose of this study was to determine systemic and local muscle oxygen responses during both isolated finger flexion and incremental exhaustive whole-body climbing tests. The secondary aim was to determine the relationship of isolated and whole-body climbing endurance tests to climbing ability. Methods Twenty-two male sport climbers completed a series of isometric sustained and intermittent forearm flexor contractions, and an exhaustive climbing test with progressive steepening of the wall angle on a motorised climbing ergometer. Systemic (v) over dotO(2) and flexor digitorum profundus oxygen saturation-(StO(2)) were recorded using portable metabolic analyser and near-infra red spectroscopy, respectively. Results Muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) was identifiable during an incremental exhaustive climbing test with progressive increases in angle (82 +/- 8% and 88 +/- 8% (v) over dotO(2) and heart rate climbing peak). The peak angle from whole-body treadwall test and impulse from isolated hangboard endurance tests were interrelated (R-2 = 0.58-0.64). Peak climbing angle together with mean (v) over dotO(2) and-StO(2) from submaximal climbing explained 83% of variance in self-reported climbing ability. Conclusions Both systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics determine climbing-specific endurance. Exhaustive climbing and isolated finger flexion endurance tests are interrelated and suitable to assess climbing-specific endurance. An exhaustive climbing test with progressive wall angle allows determination of the MOB.

Druh

J_imp - Článek v periodiku v databázi Web of Science

CEP obor

—

OECD FORD obor

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Projekt

—

Návaznosti

S - Specificky vyzkum na vysokych skolach

Rok uplatnění

2021

Kód důvěrnosti údajů

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Název periodika

European Journal of Applied Physiology

ISSN

1439-6319

e-ISSN

—

Svazek periodika

121

Číslo periodika v rámci svazku

5

Stát vydavatele periodika

DE - Spolková republika Německo

Počet stran výsledku

12

Strana od-do

1337-1348

Kód UT WoS článku

000618573000001

EID výsledku v databázi Scopus

2-s2.0-85100881617