Acute Effect of High-Intensity Climbing on Performance and Muscle Oxygenation in Elite Climbers

Kód výsledku v IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F22%3A10441704" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/22:10441704 - isvavai.cz</a>

Výsledek na webu

<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=mE1b0v4aB1" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=mE1b0v4aB1</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s42978-021-00139-9" target="_blank" >10.1007/s42978-021-00139-9</a>

Jazyk výsledku

angličtina

Název v původním jazyce

Acute Effect of High-Intensity Climbing on Performance and Muscle Oxygenation in Elite Climbers

Popis výsledku v původním jazyce

High-intensity training (HIT) is known to have deteriorating effects on performance which manifest in various physiological changes such as lowered force production and oxidative capacity. However, the effect of HIT in climbing on finger flexor performance has not been investigated yet. Twenty-one climbers partook in an intervention study with three assessment time points: pre-HIT, post-HIT, and 24-h post-HIT. The HIT involved four five-minute exhaustive climbing tasks. Eight climbers were assigned to a control group. Assessments consisted of three finger flexor tests: maximum voluntary contraction (MVC), sustained contraction (SCT), and intermittent contraction tests (ICT). During the SCT muscle oxygenation (SmO2) metrics were collected via NIRS sensors on the forearm. The HIT had significant deteriorating effects on all force production metrics (MVC - 18%, SCT - 55%, ICT - 59%). Post-24 h showed significant recovery, which was less pronounced for the endurance tests (MVC - 3%, SCT - 16%, ICT - 22%). SmO2 metrics provided similar results for the SCT with medium to large effect sizes. Minimally attainable SmO2 and resting SmO2 both showed moderate negative correlations with pre-HIT force production respectively; r = - 0.41, P = 0.102; r = - 0.361, P = 0.154. A strong association was found between a loss of force production and change in minimally attainable SmO2 (r = - 0.734, P = 0.016). This study presents novel findings on the deteriorating effects of HIT on finger flexor performance and their oxidative capacity. Specifically, the divergent results between strength and endurance tests should be of interest to coaches and athletes when assessing athlete readiness.

Název v anglickém jazyce

Acute Effect of High-Intensity Climbing on Performance and Muscle Oxygenation in Elite Climbers

Popis výsledku anglicky

High-intensity training (HIT) is known to have deteriorating effects on performance which manifest in various physiological changes such as lowered force production and oxidative capacity. However, the effect of HIT in climbing on finger flexor performance has not been investigated yet. Twenty-one climbers partook in an intervention study with three assessment time points: pre-HIT, post-HIT, and 24-h post-HIT. The HIT involved four five-minute exhaustive climbing tasks. Eight climbers were assigned to a control group. Assessments consisted of three finger flexor tests: maximum voluntary contraction (MVC), sustained contraction (SCT), and intermittent contraction tests (ICT). During the SCT muscle oxygenation (SmO2) metrics were collected via NIRS sensors on the forearm. The HIT had significant deteriorating effects on all force production metrics (MVC - 18%, SCT - 55%, ICT - 59%). Post-24 h showed significant recovery, which was less pronounced for the endurance tests (MVC - 3%, SCT - 16%, ICT - 22%). SmO2 metrics provided similar results for the SCT with medium to large effect sizes. Minimally attainable SmO2 and resting SmO2 both showed moderate negative correlations with pre-HIT force production respectively; r = - 0.41, P = 0.102; r = - 0.361, P = 0.154. A strong association was found between a loss of force production and change in minimally attainable SmO2 (r = - 0.734, P = 0.016). This study presents novel findings on the deteriorating effects of HIT on finger flexor performance and their oxidative capacity. Specifically, the divergent results between strength and endurance tests should be of interest to coaches and athletes when assessing athlete readiness.

Druh

J_SC - Článek v periodiku v databázi SCOPUS

CEP obor

—

OECD FORD obor

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Projekt

—

Návaznosti

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Rok uplatnění

2022

Kód důvěrnosti údajů

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Název periodika

Journal of Science in Sport and Exercise

ISSN

2096-6709

e-ISSN

2662-1371

Svazek periodika

4

Číslo periodika v rámci svazku

2

Stát vydavatele periodika

CH - Švýcarská konfederace

Počet stran výsledku

11

Strana od-do

145-155

Kód UT WoS článku

—

EID výsledku v databázi Scopus

2-s2.0-85119501927