The birth of fashion as complex phenomenon: Aesthetic rereading of Frederick Charles Worth’s practice
Identifikátory výsledku
Kód výsledku v IS VaVaI
<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11210%2F25%3A10501262" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11210/25:10501262 - isvavai.cz</a>
Výsledek na webu
<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=Et~g.0Wy3P" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=Et~g.0Wy3P</a>
DOI - Digital Object Identifier
<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/09571558241301320" target="_blank" >10.1177/09571558241301320</a>
Alternativní jazyky
Jazyk výsledku
angličtina
Název v původním jazyce
The birth of fashion as complex phenomenon: Aesthetic rereading of Frederick Charles Worth’s practice
Popis výsledku v původním jazyce
Frederick Charles Worth (1825-1895) is consensually regarded as a founder of haute couture. Hisbusiness was accompanied by unprecedented marketing strategies. These strategies included alsothe person of dressmaker in order to change his social status. In accordance with this, dressmakingis no longer just a craft; it has begun to aspire to the position of art. This article wants to show thatthe process of establishing "the field of haute couture" (Bourdieu) cannot be described only insociological terms but contains a substantial aesthetic dimension. Our analysis of Worth's socialpractices reveals a series of dialectical relations that constitute objects of fashion as such. Thenew institutional framework of haute couture inevitably accelerates changes in the material designof garments, which at the same time supports their moral obsolescence. In the second step, wediscuss Charles Baudelaire's attempt to characterize the nature of specifically modern art.Baudelaire's formulations emphasize a very similar dialectical structure of modern beauty, whichis constituted by its inclination to transience and decay. In this sense, Worth's innovative practiceitself produces the aesthetic quality of a single apparel. So, we can read Worth's haute couture asan instance of Baudelairian modern art.
Název v anglickém jazyce
The birth of fashion as complex phenomenon: Aesthetic rereading of Frederick Charles Worth’s practice
Popis výsledku anglicky
Frederick Charles Worth (1825-1895) is consensually regarded as a founder of haute couture. Hisbusiness was accompanied by unprecedented marketing strategies. These strategies included alsothe person of dressmaker in order to change his social status. In accordance with this, dressmakingis no longer just a craft; it has begun to aspire to the position of art. This article wants to show thatthe process of establishing "the field of haute couture" (Bourdieu) cannot be described only insociological terms but contains a substantial aesthetic dimension. Our analysis of Worth's socialpractices reveals a series of dialectical relations that constitute objects of fashion as such. Thenew institutional framework of haute couture inevitably accelerates changes in the material designof garments, which at the same time supports their moral obsolescence. In the second step, wediscuss Charles Baudelaire's attempt to characterize the nature of specifically modern art.Baudelaire's formulations emphasize a very similar dialectical structure of modern beauty, whichis constituted by its inclination to transience and decay. In this sense, Worth's innovative practiceitself produces the aesthetic quality of a single apparel. So, we can read Worth's haute couture asan instance of Baudelairian modern art.
Klasifikace
Druh
J<sub>imp</sub> - Článek v periodiku v databázi Web of Science
CEP obor
—
OECD FORD obor
60400 - Arts (arts, history of arts, performing arts, music)
Návaznosti výsledku
Projekt
—
Návaznosti
S - Specificky vyzkum na vysokych skolach
Ostatní
Rok uplatnění
2025
Kód důvěrnosti údajů
S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů
Údaje specifické pro druh výsledku
Název periodika
French Cultural Studies
ISSN
0957-1558
e-ISSN
1740-2352
Svazek periodika
36
Číslo periodika v rámci svazku
3/2025
Stát vydavatele periodika
GB - Spojené království Velké Británie a Severního Irska
Počet stran výsledku
12
Strana od-do
222-233
Kód UT WoS článku
001371469000001
EID výsledku v databázi Scopus
2-s2.0-85211004602