Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing

Kód výsledku v IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F18%3A10376384" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/18:10376384 - isvavai.cz</a>

Výsledek na webu

<a href="https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484" target="_blank" >https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484" target="_blank" >10.1080/02701367.2018.1441484</a>

Jazyk výsledku

angličtina

Název v původním jazyce

Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing

Popis výsledku v původním jazyce

Purpose: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability. Methods: To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90 degrees) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180 degrees and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF. Results: The maximal strength test without AF more strongly determined climbing ability than the test with AF (r(2)=.48 and r(2)=.42 for sport climbing; r(2)=.66 and r(2)=.42 for bouldering, respectively). Force and time variables were highly reliable; the rate of force development and fatigue index had moderate and low reliability. The maximal strength test with AF provided slightly higher reliability than without AF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC]=0.94, ICC=0.88, respectively). However, smaller maximal forces were achieved during AF (484 +/- 112N) than without AF (546 +/- 132N). All-out test average force had sufficiently high reliability (ICC=0.92) and a relationship to sport climbing (r(2)=.42) and bouldering ability (r(2)=.58). Conclusion: Finger strength and endurance measurements provided sufficient construct validity evidence and high reliability for time and force parameters. Arm fixation provides more reliable results; however, the position without AF is recommended as it is more related to climbing ability.

Název v anglickém jazyce

Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing

Popis výsledku anglicky

Purpose: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability. Methods: To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90 degrees) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180 degrees and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF. Results: The maximal strength test without AF more strongly determined climbing ability than the test with AF (r(2)=.48 and r(2)=.42 for sport climbing; r(2)=.66 and r(2)=.42 for bouldering, respectively). Force and time variables were highly reliable; the rate of force development and fatigue index had moderate and low reliability. The maximal strength test with AF provided slightly higher reliability than without AF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC]=0.94, ICC=0.88, respectively). However, smaller maximal forces were achieved during AF (484 +/- 112N) than without AF (546 +/- 132N). All-out test average force had sufficiently high reliability (ICC=0.92) and a relationship to sport climbing (r(2)=.42) and bouldering ability (r(2)=.58). Conclusion: Finger strength and endurance measurements provided sufficient construct validity evidence and high reliability for time and force parameters. Arm fixation provides more reliable results; however, the position without AF is recommended as it is more related to climbing ability.

Druh

J_imp - Článek v periodiku v databázi Web of Science

CEP obor

—

OECD FORD obor

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Projekt

—

Návaznosti

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Rok uplatnění

2018

Kód důvěrnosti údajů

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Název periodika

Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport

ISSN

0270-1367

e-ISSN

—

Svazek periodika

89

Číslo periodika v rámci svazku

2

Stát vydavatele periodika

US - Spojené státy americké

Počet stran výsledku

9

Strana od-do

246-254

Kód UT WoS článku

000434342600013

EID výsledku v databázi Scopus

2-s2.0-85044455479