Validity and normative scores of finger flexor strength and endurance tests estimated from a large sample of female and male climbers

Kód výsledku v IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F25%3A10502144" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/25:10502144 - isvavai.cz</a>

Výsledek na webu

<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=wmo4GtMAhP" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=wmo4GtMAhP</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2024.2449316" target="_blank" >10.1080/02640414.2024.2449316</a>

Jazyk výsledku

angličtina

Název v původním jazyce

Validity and normative scores of finger flexor strength and endurance tests estimated from a large sample of female and male climbers

Popis výsledku v původním jazyce

Recent reviews have highlighted conflicting findings regarding the validity of finger flexor strength and endurance tests in sport climbers, often due to small sample sizes and low ecological validity of the tests used. To address these gaps, 185 male and 122 female climbers underwent maximal finger flexor strength, intermittent and continuous finger flexor endurance, and the finger hang tests in a sport-specific setting to determine the predictive and concurrent validity of these tests. The finger hang test showed the strongest relationship to climbing ability for both sexes (R approximate to 0.75). However, despite its widespread use as an endurance test, the finger hang was found to be primarily determined by finger strength, explaining 65% and 80% of the variance in males and females, respectively. Finger strength emerged as the dominant factor, explaining the majority of variance in climbing ability (males 68%; females 64%), followed by intermittent endurance (males 28%; females 34%). These findings emphasize finger strength as the primary predictor of climbing ability and highlight the importance of intermittent endurance testing for assessing climbing-specific endurance of the finger flexors. No significant differences were found between male and female climbers in finger flexor strength and endurance when normalized to body mass.

Název v anglickém jazyce

Validity and normative scores of finger flexor strength and endurance tests estimated from a large sample of female and male climbers

Popis výsledku anglicky

Recent reviews have highlighted conflicting findings regarding the validity of finger flexor strength and endurance tests in sport climbers, often due to small sample sizes and low ecological validity of the tests used. To address these gaps, 185 male and 122 female climbers underwent maximal finger flexor strength, intermittent and continuous finger flexor endurance, and the finger hang tests in a sport-specific setting to determine the predictive and concurrent validity of these tests. The finger hang test showed the strongest relationship to climbing ability for both sexes (R approximate to 0.75). However, despite its widespread use as an endurance test, the finger hang was found to be primarily determined by finger strength, explaining 65% and 80% of the variance in males and females, respectively. Finger strength emerged as the dominant factor, explaining the majority of variance in climbing ability (males 68%; females 64%), followed by intermittent endurance (males 28%; females 34%). These findings emphasize finger strength as the primary predictor of climbing ability and highlight the importance of intermittent endurance testing for assessing climbing-specific endurance of the finger flexors. No significant differences were found between male and female climbers in finger flexor strength and endurance when normalized to body mass.

Druh

J_imp - Článek v periodiku v databázi Web of Science

CEP obor

—

OECD FORD obor

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Projekt

—

Návaznosti

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Rok uplatnění

2025

Kód důvěrnosti údajů

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Název periodika

Journal of Sports Sciences

ISSN

0264-0414

e-ISSN

1466-447X

Svazek periodika

43

Číslo periodika v rámci svazku

3

Stát vydavatele periodika

GB - Spojené království Velké Británie a Severního Irska

Počet stran výsledku

11

Strana od-do

245-255

Kód UT WoS článku

001389798800001

EID výsledku v databázi Scopus

2-s2.0-105001477483