A Novel Tool for the Assessment of Sport Climbers' Movement Performance

Kód výsledku v IS VaVaI

<a href="https://www.isvavai.cz/riv?ss=detail&h=RIV%2F00216208%3A11510%2F20%3A10412495" target="_blank" >RIV/00216208:11510/20:10412495 - isvavai.cz</a>

Výsledek na webu

<a href="https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=NBnj67tPi4" target="_blank" >https://verso.is.cuni.cz/pub/verso.fpl?fname=obd_publikace_handle&handle=NBnj67tPi4</a>

DOI - Digital Object Identifier

<a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2019-0311" target="_blank" >10.1123/ijspp.2019-0311</a>

Jazyk výsledku

angličtina

Název v původním jazyce

A Novel Tool for the Assessment of Sport Climbers' Movement Performance

Popis výsledku v původním jazyce

Purpose: To assess the validity and reliability of a novel movement-performance assessment tool for climbing/sport climbing. Methods: First, salient climbing movement-performance factors were identified through an iterative consultation process with 10 expert climbing coaches; the resulting Climber&apos;s Movement Performance Assessment Tool (CM-PAT) contained 14 items in 5 categories. Second, 61 intermediate to advanced climbers ascended a single route, which was video recorded. Subsequently, 4 experienced (&gt;10 y coaching) coaches used the CM-PAT to observe and score the climbers&apos; performance. Interrater reliability and comparisons with existing measures of climbing performance (6-mo self-reported ability, success and failure, climbing pace [m.min(-1)], and geometric entropy) were made. Results: Intraclass correlation coefficient (2,k) for the 4 raters demonstrated excellent reliability (&gt;.81) between observers and good to excellent test-retest reliability (.71-.91). Pearson correlations between self-reported ability and CM-PAT scores explained 61% of the variance in self-reported climbing performance compared with 16% for geometric entropy and 52% for climbing pace. Considering differences in successful and unsuccessful climbers, the CM-PAT (P &lt; .0005; d = 2.14), geometric entropy (P = .014; d = 0.67), and pace (P &lt; .0005; d = 1.88) were able to differentiate between groups. Conclusions: The CM-PAT is the first sport climbing performance observational instrument to be developed through a thorough iterative process with expert coaches. Excellent interrater and test-retest reliability and excellent agreement with self-reported ability and with existing quantitative measures of performance support its recommendation for use in coaching and research contexts. Notably, a key advantage over existing measures is the identification of coachable elements of performance.

Název v anglickém jazyce

A Novel Tool for the Assessment of Sport Climbers' Movement Performance

Popis výsledku anglicky

Purpose: To assess the validity and reliability of a novel movement-performance assessment tool for climbing/sport climbing. Methods: First, salient climbing movement-performance factors were identified through an iterative consultation process with 10 expert climbing coaches; the resulting Climber&apos;s Movement Performance Assessment Tool (CM-PAT) contained 14 items in 5 categories. Second, 61 intermediate to advanced climbers ascended a single route, which was video recorded. Subsequently, 4 experienced (&gt;10 y coaching) coaches used the CM-PAT to observe and score the climbers&apos; performance. Interrater reliability and comparisons with existing measures of climbing performance (6-mo self-reported ability, success and failure, climbing pace [m.min(-1)], and geometric entropy) were made. Results: Intraclass correlation coefficient (2,k) for the 4 raters demonstrated excellent reliability (&gt;.81) between observers and good to excellent test-retest reliability (.71-.91). Pearson correlations between self-reported ability and CM-PAT scores explained 61% of the variance in self-reported climbing performance compared with 16% for geometric entropy and 52% for climbing pace. Considering differences in successful and unsuccessful climbers, the CM-PAT (P &lt; .0005; d = 2.14), geometric entropy (P = .014; d = 0.67), and pace (P &lt; .0005; d = 1.88) were able to differentiate between groups. Conclusions: The CM-PAT is the first sport climbing performance observational instrument to be developed through a thorough iterative process with expert coaches. Excellent interrater and test-retest reliability and excellent agreement with self-reported ability and with existing quantitative measures of performance support its recommendation for use in coaching and research contexts. Notably, a key advantage over existing measures is the identification of coachable elements of performance.

Druh

J_imp - Článek v periodiku v databázi Web of Science

CEP obor

—

OECD FORD obor

30306 - Sport and fitness sciences

Projekt

—

Návaznosti

I - Institucionalni podpora na dlouhodoby koncepcni rozvoj vyzkumne organizace

Rok uplatnění

2020

Kód důvěrnosti údajů

S - Úplné a pravdivé údaje o projektu nepodléhají ochraně podle zvláštních právních předpisů

Název periodika

International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance

ISSN

1555-0265

e-ISSN

—

Svazek periodika

15

Číslo periodika v rámci svazku

6

Stát vydavatele periodika

US - Spojené státy americké

Počet stran výsledku

6

Strana od-do

795-800

Kód UT WoS článku

000540309300005

EID výsledku v databázi Scopus

2-s2.0-85086381086